Dennis Collier Fly Illustration - Copyright Dennis Collier 2015Fly Patterns

DC's Neon Prince-Stone Fly Recipe & Tying Sequence

By Dennis P. Collier

The idea for this heavily weighted nymph pattern came about while I was tying some Rubber Leg Copper Johns in exaggerated sizes. Intended to be used as a depth-seeking attractor in a multi-fly rig - such as with a Jujubee Midge or RS2 point fly - it finds its fair share of favor with the fish as well.

I use Ginger UTC wire to suggest Golden Stones, and Copper Brown UTC wire to mimic the wide variety of brown colored stoneflies which inhabit the majority of our western watersheds. UTC wire comes in a wide variety of beautiful colors, such as: Fluorescent Chartreuse and Yellow, Golden Olive, and Amber, to name just a few of the other colors that I use for this pattern. Let your imagination roam, for who knows what the fish will want for dinner on any given day.

DC's Neon Prince-Stone Fly Recipe:

Hook: Size 6, 8 - TMC 2499 SPBL
Thread: Brown UTC 70 Ultra Thread or 8/0 Uni-thread
Bead: 3.3mm (1/8") Tungsten Tarnished Gold
Tails: Mahogany dyed goose biots
Back: Black Krystal Flash - 8 strands (4 strands doubled on thread)
Abdomen: Ginger UTC "BR" size anodized wire
Thorax: Chocolate Brown SLF Prism dubbing
Hackle Collar: Furnace hen neck (the softer the better)
Antennae: PMD dyed goose biots
  • Step 1:

    Place a 3.3mm Tungsten Tarnished Gold Bead onto the hook. Take twelve to fourteen wraps of .010 lead wire and push tight to the bead. Start the thread behind the bead and wrap to just past the bend of the hook shank. Pinch a set of Mahogany goose biots with opposing curves between the thumb and forefinger and align the tips. Tie-in with a couple of loose thread wraps and adjust the length, position, etc., then secure with a couple of tight wraps.


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  • Step 2:

    Advance the thread forward to a position right behind the lead wire, covering the biots on each side of the hook shank and forming a smooth under-body. Double four strands of Black Krystal Flash around the thread; while holding it on top of the hook shank, wrap back to the biot tie-in point. Attach the UTC wire at this junction and wrap back to the bead, making sure to create a smooth, tapered thread base. Throw a half-hitch in the thread to keep it from accidentally unwinding during the next step.

  • Step 3:

    Take four turns of UTC wire around the hook shank and pull the Krystal flash forward over the back while taking one turn of wire over the top. Hold the wire tightly in one hand while lifting the Krystal Flash upward and to the rear; at the same time making another turn of wire immediately in front of the Krystal Flash, then advance three more turns. Note: You can increase the number of base wire wraps to five or six if you prefer wider banding.

  • Step 4:

    Repeat this process until you've created an abdomen ending right behind the lead wire. Check your work as you go to insure the Krystal Flash is aligned on top of the hook shank. Secure both wire and Krystal Flash and trim the excess material. I use an inexpensive set of fingernail clippers for this step, saving the blades on my scissors. Wax the thread and apply a small amount of dubbing. Wrap a small, bulbous thorax and position the thread behind the bead.

  • Step 5:

    Trim the butt of a furnace hen neck hackle and tie-in behind the bead. Take two full turns of hackle and secure. Trim the hackle tip and the barbules on top of the fly. This will clear the deck for easy application of the PMD goose biots. Using your thumb and forefinger, pinch the hackle fibers toward the rear of the hook.


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  • Step 6:

    Tie-in a single goose biot on the far side of the hook, extending back to the hook bend. Tie-in a second goose biot on the near side of the hook, measuring the length against the first biot. Spread the biots into a delta-wing configuration and secure. Fold the butts of the biots back over the tips and lock them into place with a few additional thread wraps. Closely trim the biot butts and apply a very small amount of dubbing to cover them. Whip finish and cement.

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